The type of insecticide used is not so important. There are many very good proprietary brands on the market, and this important subject will be dealt with more fully later on, but it is as well to use a brand that will give a measure of protection against both the biting and the sucking insects. A mixture of D.D.T. and Gammexane (Gamma B.H.C.) as a spray or dust seems to give better results than most other insecticides, as a matter of fact.
Whatever is used it is essential to spray or dust at no greater watering, even if this means spraying or dusting several times in one week, taking care to cover both the upper and underside of the foliage, with particular attention to the growing points.
Chicken and rabbit manure, although rather dangerous stuff to use because of its comparatively high ammonia content, if well mixed with straw and composted down for a time makes an excellent mulch, but in this case it is probably best to apply an additional layer of straw on top of the manure as it is seldom possible to obtain sufficient to make a really deep mulch.
In addition a good deep mulch will tend to smother weed growth, because even strong growing weeds require light immediately after germination from seed, and this requirement is automatically denied them. The exceptions that manage to thrust their way through the mulch are generally suffering from the effects of etiolation and are spindly, puny caricatures of their normal selves.
With regards to the weed problem, it was mentioned earlier in this chapter that it is essential to keep the dahlia plot free from weeds by regular hoeing. This is very true in the first few weeks after planting, but after this, say from the middle of July onwards, a hoe may well cause more harm than good because its over zealous use may damage the young feeder roots, which will have spread well out over the ground by this time, as well as being very close to the surface.
The time of application will vary with both the season and the type of soil. The first noticeable effect of mulching is a considerable drop in the surface temperature of the soil, so that it is obviously not a good plan to mulch too early on heavy soils which are slow in warming up, or in a cold damp season.
Whatever is used it is essential to spray or dust at no greater watering, even if this means spraying or dusting several times in one week, taking care to cover both the upper and underside of the foliage, with particular attention to the growing points.
Chicken and rabbit manure, although rather dangerous stuff to use because of its comparatively high ammonia content, if well mixed with straw and composted down for a time makes an excellent mulch, but in this case it is probably best to apply an additional layer of straw on top of the manure as it is seldom possible to obtain sufficient to make a really deep mulch.
In addition a good deep mulch will tend to smother weed growth, because even strong growing weeds require light immediately after germination from seed, and this requirement is automatically denied them. The exceptions that manage to thrust their way through the mulch are generally suffering from the effects of etiolation and are spindly, puny caricatures of their normal selves.
With regards to the weed problem, it was mentioned earlier in this chapter that it is essential to keep the dahlia plot free from weeds by regular hoeing. This is very true in the first few weeks after planting, but after this, say from the middle of July onwards, a hoe may well cause more harm than good because its over zealous use may damage the young feeder roots, which will have spread well out over the ground by this time, as well as being very close to the surface.
The time of application will vary with both the season and the type of soil. The first noticeable effect of mulching is a considerable drop in the surface temperature of the soil, so that it is obviously not a good plan to mulch too early on heavy soils which are slow in warming up, or in a cold damp season.
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