Great kitchen lighting design typically utilises a large amount of lighting (which means more than just installing a few extra ceiling roses). Kitchen lighting needs a variety of types of lighting for different areas and purposes. The absolutely worst way to illuminate a kitchen is using bright fluorescent ceiling strip lights. They're certainly very bright - but also flat, cold and guaranteed to give you a headache into the bargain.
An obvious problem with central ceiling lights in a kitchen is that you inevitably create dark spots and are always standing in your own shadow. A common solution to this is to install banks of halogen down lights uniformly across the ceiling with additional lighting for worktops and hobs.
This certainly does the job fairly well, but is not without its own list of issues: halogen lights run at a very high temperature; they have a short lifespan; and they are without question the most costly solution as regards running kitchen lighting. A staggering ninety percent of the cost of halogen based lighting (and indeed, incandescent lighting in general) is the electricity they quite literally burn.
This in large part explains the rise in popularity of ultra low energy, cool running, LED kitchen lighting. For mains voltage lighting, all that is required is to replace existing GU10 spotlights in-situ with GU10 LEDs. For low voltage systems, replace existing 12v transformers with one (or more, depending on the number of lights involved) constant voltage 12v LED driver and then change over to LED light bulbs.
When installing LED spotlights there are 3 main areas to bear in mind, these being: brightness (or luminosity); colour temperature (whether the light appears cool and blue or warm and yellow); and beam angle (tightly focused or widely dispersed). It's a good idea to get as close as possible on these three areas to the qualities of the halogen lamps you're replacing.
We have become accustomed to rating brightness by wattage, but the rated wattage for an LED light bulb should be about 10% that of the equivalent normal incandescent or halogen bulb. So expect to replace a 35w halogen lamp with an LED rated 3w or greater, 50w requires a 5w LED and so on.
How cool or warm a light appears is graded according to "color temperature". LED lights come in a wide range of white color temperatures (not to mention actual "colors"), but historically it was easier to manufacture blue LEDs and hence many cheap LEDs exhibit a cold/bluish tint. However, if you specify warm white (technically a temperature below 3,500 Kelvins) you should get a fair approximation of the white light normally created by halogen lamps.
A narrow beam angle, say 45 degrees, makes any light appear tighter and more contained to a defined spot, whereas a much wider 120 degrees spreads the light out evenly, eliminating glare and "hot-spots". Quite possibly the best LED spot light currently available that acts as a straightforward halogen replacement is the Sharp Zenigata.
A critical component that determines how artificial light actually appears is not the light itself but the surface on which it is shining. To create a warm feel simply direct spot lights at warmly coloured areas (clay tiles, wood or just a wall painted in warm colours). If a dramatic effect is what you're after, try shining blue LEDs at either dark or reflective surfaces - blue LED light bounced off granite or steel can appear stunning.
Combine LED lights of varying characteristics with different textures and colours to produce a range of effects suited to individual zones in your kitchen. The are almost boundless possibilities, even before you get to playing with LED strip lighting to accent plinths, worktops, coving and more or less anything else that takes your fancy. As ever though, the best designs often emerge by limiting things to a handful or less of the most appealing ideas - but don't be surprised how stunning even small amount of LED kitchen lighting looks.
An obvious problem with central ceiling lights in a kitchen is that you inevitably create dark spots and are always standing in your own shadow. A common solution to this is to install banks of halogen down lights uniformly across the ceiling with additional lighting for worktops and hobs.
This certainly does the job fairly well, but is not without its own list of issues: halogen lights run at a very high temperature; they have a short lifespan; and they are without question the most costly solution as regards running kitchen lighting. A staggering ninety percent of the cost of halogen based lighting (and indeed, incandescent lighting in general) is the electricity they quite literally burn.
This in large part explains the rise in popularity of ultra low energy, cool running, LED kitchen lighting. For mains voltage lighting, all that is required is to replace existing GU10 spotlights in-situ with GU10 LEDs. For low voltage systems, replace existing 12v transformers with one (or more, depending on the number of lights involved) constant voltage 12v LED driver and then change over to LED light bulbs.
When installing LED spotlights there are 3 main areas to bear in mind, these being: brightness (or luminosity); colour temperature (whether the light appears cool and blue or warm and yellow); and beam angle (tightly focused or widely dispersed). It's a good idea to get as close as possible on these three areas to the qualities of the halogen lamps you're replacing.
We have become accustomed to rating brightness by wattage, but the rated wattage for an LED light bulb should be about 10% that of the equivalent normal incandescent or halogen bulb. So expect to replace a 35w halogen lamp with an LED rated 3w or greater, 50w requires a 5w LED and so on.
How cool or warm a light appears is graded according to "color temperature". LED lights come in a wide range of white color temperatures (not to mention actual "colors"), but historically it was easier to manufacture blue LEDs and hence many cheap LEDs exhibit a cold/bluish tint. However, if you specify warm white (technically a temperature below 3,500 Kelvins) you should get a fair approximation of the white light normally created by halogen lamps.
A narrow beam angle, say 45 degrees, makes any light appear tighter and more contained to a defined spot, whereas a much wider 120 degrees spreads the light out evenly, eliminating glare and "hot-spots". Quite possibly the best LED spot light currently available that acts as a straightforward halogen replacement is the Sharp Zenigata.
A critical component that determines how artificial light actually appears is not the light itself but the surface on which it is shining. To create a warm feel simply direct spot lights at warmly coloured areas (clay tiles, wood or just a wall painted in warm colours). If a dramatic effect is what you're after, try shining blue LEDs at either dark or reflective surfaces - blue LED light bounced off granite or steel can appear stunning.
Combine LED lights of varying characteristics with different textures and colours to produce a range of effects suited to individual zones in your kitchen. The are almost boundless possibilities, even before you get to playing with LED strip lighting to accent plinths, worktops, coving and more or less anything else that takes your fancy. As ever though, the best designs often emerge by limiting things to a handful or less of the most appealing ideas - but don't be surprised how stunning even small amount of LED kitchen lighting looks.
About the Author:
Before you design your new kitchen lighting, Abigail Monot strongly recommends you discover more about kitchen lighting ideas in particular and domestic LED lighting in general.
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