A few growers prefer to wash all soil away from the tubers at this stage to ensure that there are no slug eggs or other soil pests left in close contact. There seems little point in this, for the tubers are more difficult to dry in wet damp weather, and they will tend to shrivel more quickly in store. Provided the weather is suitable it is best partially to dry the tubers out of doors for at least a few days, preferably upside down and in such a manner that the stumps of the stems are not in contact with the soil.
A spade, if used carelessly, may cut through tubers which a fork would miss, but there is much less chance of breaking tubers as the whole weight will be supported on the blade. If a fork is used, some part of the tuber may resist lifting, as the finer roots have not been removed, and severe damage may be caused by the uneven pressure.
Large mesh chicken wire can be used for this purpose by threading long cane through the mesh at the outside edges, with shorter cane threaded across to keep the wire taut. A supply of sacks or other protective material should be kept near by, ready to put over should frost seem imminent.
It is best to remove all loose soil from around the tubers immediately after lifting, except in the case of plants which have made only thin, fragile tubers. These are best left with much of the soil intact as this will materially help in reducing moisture loss. This also applies to certain varieties which tend to make bulbous tubers with a thin neck at the point of attachment to the crown; if the soil is removed the weight of the unsupported tuber will probably fracture the thin neck.
Any damaged tubers, or any with broken necks, should be trimmed back cleanly, or even removed completely, as the damaged area is so often the point of entry for disease. Before removing the tubers from the plot the label should be firmly wired to the stem or to a stout tuber.
At this stage the stumps of the old stems should be cut down almost to the crown; be very careful here as sonic -varieties have a very high crown, almost indistinguishable from the stem, except that the flesh, instead of being slightly yellow and fibrous, is white and comparatively free of fibre. Gently scrape the skin with the thumb nail to find this out. Any damaged or broken tubers should be trimmed back, and the fibrous roots cut away. Dust the cut surfaces with a mixture of equal parts of flowers of sulphur and hydrated lime to safeguard against bacterial or fungoid attack.
A spade, if used carelessly, may cut through tubers which a fork would miss, but there is much less chance of breaking tubers as the whole weight will be supported on the blade. If a fork is used, some part of the tuber may resist lifting, as the finer roots have not been removed, and severe damage may be caused by the uneven pressure.
Large mesh chicken wire can be used for this purpose by threading long cane through the mesh at the outside edges, with shorter cane threaded across to keep the wire taut. A supply of sacks or other protective material should be kept near by, ready to put over should frost seem imminent.
It is best to remove all loose soil from around the tubers immediately after lifting, except in the case of plants which have made only thin, fragile tubers. These are best left with much of the soil intact as this will materially help in reducing moisture loss. This also applies to certain varieties which tend to make bulbous tubers with a thin neck at the point of attachment to the crown; if the soil is removed the weight of the unsupported tuber will probably fracture the thin neck.
Any damaged tubers, or any with broken necks, should be trimmed back cleanly, or even removed completely, as the damaged area is so often the point of entry for disease. Before removing the tubers from the plot the label should be firmly wired to the stem or to a stout tuber.
At this stage the stumps of the old stems should be cut down almost to the crown; be very careful here as sonic -varieties have a very high crown, almost indistinguishable from the stem, except that the flesh, instead of being slightly yellow and fibrous, is white and comparatively free of fibre. Gently scrape the skin with the thumb nail to find this out. Any damaged or broken tubers should be trimmed back, and the fibrous roots cut away. Dust the cut surfaces with a mixture of equal parts of flowers of sulphur and hydrated lime to safeguard against bacterial or fungoid attack.
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